The Feed

A Critic’s Look at Restaurant Criticism

Image Credit: Eater / D’Ara Nazaryan

After a night out at a particularly celebrated, high-end restaurant in New York City last winter, restaurant critic Korsha Wilson questioned, “What would restaurant criticism look like if it represented diners like me?”

In an Eater op-ed, she said instead of basking in the delight of a “technically flawless” dinner, she felt “embarrassed by the nostalgia” of the by-gone era the swinging restaurant conjured. She was also disappointed that she was only one of two black diners in a bustling city hotspot on a busy Friday night.

As one of the best-reviewed restaurants at the time, she wondered how those glowing appraisals might differ if people of color had written them.

Read more of Wilson’s in-depth 2019 editorial that asks tough questions about the types of restaurants that seem to inherently get the critical upper hand, why more diverse dining options are largely ignored, and what she calls the “homogenous old guard” restaurant-criticism establishment as a whole.

And read how Chef Dominique Crenn has also been a vocal critic of organization that promote inequality, and how she’s trying to change make a difference.

No Comments

    Leave a Reply